As part of the trip I was able to experience the magical, gracious city of Istanbul through a gourmet food tour with Sonradan Gurmeler, where I met Ece Er, a wonderful human and Turkish citizen.

We met up after the tour, and she shared with me her favorite off the beaten path adventures to have in Istanbul, even taking the time to write it out in my travel notebook.

These adventures can also be found in the book ‘Yerim Seni Istanbul’ (Grab a Bite of Istanbul). She is one of the authors of this book, which stands as Istanbul’s largest culinary guide on street food and restaurants with 230 spots.

I had the best time in Turkey with her off the beaten path advice and I wanted to share these insider insights with you as well!

There are definitely must sees in Istanbul that you cannot miss while you’re there; Topkapi Palace, Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, and the Grand Bazaar. . . but if you’re looking to adventure off the beaten path in Istanbul  —  climbing to the Buyuk Valide Han roof where James Bond once had his famous motorbike chase, exploring two continents in one day, and eating your heart out with the locals — then who better to guide you around Istanbul than an knowledgeable, adventurous local?

Istanbul, Turkey || Tom Grond || @TravelTomTom

Day 1: Feel Like a Sultan in the Historical Peninsula

Start your journey from Sirkeci Pier and walk through Blue Mosque while enjoying the food and spectacular monuments!

• Explore the gastronomy zone; the Hodjapasha (Hocapasa) Square:
  • Do not leave Istanbul without eating Cag Kebap at Sehzade, the best dish in town!
  • Try the spicy and yummy meatballs of Kasap Osman.
  • Get excited at Can Oba, with a daily menu full of surprises!

• Experience the show of Ali Usta and eat his delicious Cig Köfte coming along with a lemon rain!
• Stop by at Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir’s candy shop, open since 1777. Taste the “cifte kavrulmus” and “kaymakli” Turkish delights.
• Enjoy the open bazaar and various shops in Eminonu — Tahtakale, be careful not to get lost in the crowd especially between 12–4 pm.
• Go and explore the historical Grand Bazaar (Kapali Carsi)! This huge mall has been there for centuries now! Make sure you get some souvenirs back home with evil eye. Take a look at the Turkish carpets — do not forget to bargain!
• If not still under construction, take a look at beautiful Bosphorus from the roof top of Buyuk Valide Han. It is not easy to find and not everybody knows how to climb up to there! But the view of two continents along with the Golden Horn is breathtaking!
• Take your time to visit Topkapi Palace and Gulhane Park. Order a “semaver” (teapot for multiple servings) in Gulhane’s garden again with the best view of Bosphorus.
• Climb up to Hagia Sophia (Aya Sofya Muzesi), see how religions engage on the walls of this spectacular architecture.
• Cross over to Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii), the gorgeous mosque with hand painted blue tiles and six minarets.
• If you want to experience shisha with a different Turkish Coffee aside, go to Corlulu Ali Pasa Medresesi. The chaotic, yet mystical aura is worth experiencing!
• Discover the Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnici), the largest cistern beneath Istanbul. See Medusa’s upside down head, get surprised by the fish!
• Still hungry? Eat the popular meatball at Sultanahmet Koftecisi — Make sure you go to the real one!
• Finally, visit the Pudding Shop (Lale Restaurant) which was a popular destination for hippies in 1960s. Hippies stopped by in Sirkeci train station as the last stop for Europe, and continued to Asia from there after eating their puddings!

Day 2: Listen to the Rhythm of the City — Besiktas, Nisantasi, Arnavutkoy, and Bebek

• You might have heard the famous and rich Turkish breakfast tables. you should definitely go to Bazlama Kahvalti in Nisantasi. Try to go early in the morning between 9–10, or you’ll have to wait in the line.
• Do some window shopping or real shopping in Nisantasi, it is a pretty neighborhood to walk around 🙂
• For a juicy and yummy street burger experience that you’ll never forget, go to Akali in Akaretler.
• In the evening you can go to Beer Hall or Joker for some beer in Akaretler.
• Every weekday and on Saturday, try “the best street doner” in town at Karadeniz Bufe in Besiktas Carsi. When their doner finishes, they will close up the shop and won’t put another roll to sell more — Once it finishes, it finishes! So make sure you go between 11–3 pm.

• Visit the fantastic Dolmabahce Palace, served as the administrative center of the Ottoman Empire during the last years of the empire. Also, the great leader Mustafa Kemal Ataturk breathed his last there.
• You can have breakfast in Cakmak, drink Kervansaray Turkish Coffee in Okkali Kahve, eat Turkish home-meals at Balkan, have a feast with seafood and raki at Sidika, all in Besiktas Carsi.
• Back in Nisantasi, go to Frankie located in the roof of Sofa Hotel. You can either have cocktails in the sunset or make a reservation for dinner. It’s a high-end fine dining restaurant.
• Wear your sneakers and walk beside Bosphorus from Ortakoy to Arnavutkoy, Bebek, Rumelihisari, Emirgan. Watch the Asian side throughout your walk. While walking:
  • Eat kumpir (the delicious baked potato filled with whatever you want) in Ortakoy
  • Ice cream in Bebek from Mini Dondurma
  • Drink a coffee in Mangerie in Bebek
  • Have a Turkish puddings in Emirgan Sutis — try out ‘kazandibi’ — the burnt sweet pleasure
• Try Alexandra Cocktail Bar or Any Bar in Arnavutköy at night for nice cocktails and chill-out.

Day 3: Bites of Beyoglu

Although Beyoglu is not the same Beyoglu of 5 years ago, it is still the heart of Istanbul. The long pedestrian walkway Istiklal Avenue accommodates many nice cafes, restaurants and bars.

• Take a walk down from Gezi Parki to Tunnel (Tünel). Tunnel is the second metro railway in the world and it still functions.
• Eat the delicious İçli Köfte (stuffed meatballs) at the famous mobile street restaurant Sabirtasi.
• If you want to try the traditional tastes, try Ottoman Sultans’ chef’s bean & pilaf recipe at Tarihi Kalkanoglu Pilavcisi and then go to Mandabatmaz for the best Turkish Coffee in town.
• Walk through the historical Cicek Pasaji where many taverns are located. Jump to Petek Tursu to try various types of pickles, located inside Balikci Carsisi.
• You might not be able to see the historical trolley as it is under renovation nowadays. Continue your tour and stop by at Ficcin for a good presentation of Circassian culinary.
• Although they are not as crowded as they used to be, walk inside the side streets of the avenue in Asmalimescit.
• Take a cocktail at Leb-i Derya while viewing the beautiful Bosphorus.
• At night, try the modern tavern Duble Meze Bar with a magnificent view. Make your reservation for the night shift so you can both enjoy a modernized traditional Turkish dinner and a party! Enjoy drinking raki with the accompanying delicious ‘meze’s.
• Karakoy is also a good option to party and hangout, down side from Beyoglu, close to shore.

Day 4: Cuddle Up the Anatolian side in Kadikoy

This large, populous, and cosmopolitan district of Istanbul in Asian side, faces the historic city center on the European side of the Bosporus. Kadikoy is the neighbourhood of a residential area as well as numerous restaurants, bars, cinemas and bookshops.

• Do not leave Istanbul without crossing Bosphorus with ferry! Take your Turkish bagel (simit), order a tea in the slim waisted glass and enjoy the view on the blue water with the breeze on your hair!
• Go to Ciya to try the best traditional food of regions of Turkey. They serve food from many locations around Turkey, all with their local recipes.
• Yanyali Fehmi is also very good for traditional food.
• Check out Baylan, another favourite café & candy shop. Eat Kup Griye, an ice cream recipe that dates back to 1954 almost as famous as Baylan.
• Climb up to Moda district, go to Basta Street Food Bar to try local street food — this place’s food rocks!
• Eat the milky ice cream in Ali Usta in Moda.
• Drink tea in Moda Cay Bahcesi while watching the spectacular sunset on the sea.
• Go to Bagdat Caddesi, the Champs-Elysees of Istanbul. You can either walk thru Bagdat or, walk along the seashore.
• You will love J. Burger’s (also called Jumbo Burger) home-made style burgers with a mind-blowing mayonnaise.
• Eat the sorbet and ice cream from Yasar Usta in Bagdat Caddesi, is it even an ice cream or the fruit itself?
• Try the bars in Moda at night, this is a young and dynamic district of Istanbul.
• Bonus: Go to Kandilli Suna’nin Yeri for seafood, good meze and Traditional Turkish raki along with the best Bosphorus view. As it is on the Anatolian side, it is convenient to go from Kadikoy or cross over from Bebek.

Some people I talked to before going to Istanbul had hesitations about traveling to Turkey, but I didn’t let any fear deter me from exploring this beautiful, history rich city, and I felt safe the entire time I was there.

I was rewarded by experiencing one of the kindest cultures that I’ve come across during my travels across seven continents, and had the privilege of meeting people from all walks of life in all humanity’s beautiful variance and uniqueness.

These majestic sights and stunning opportunities are out there and yours for the taking as well. Use these adventures to spark your imagination and dream of experiences that only traveling the world can give you.